Koh Samui Meter Taxis

 First time visitors to Koh Samui are frequently left with a nasty impression of Koh Samui as soon as they decide to flag down a taxi. People generally accept that taxis from airports are an exception, but when they discover that island-wide taxis are a total rip off they ask themselves, "Why do the taxis have a big sign on their roof saying 'meter' when they refuse to go on the meter?"


It is a question that everybody has asked. The answer appears to be that the taxis on the island are run by mafia cartels. The high fares are fixed; market forces are not allowed to apply. Any driver using the meter would soon be out of a job. It thus came as some surprise that in 2014 the NCPO (National Council of Peace and Order) announced that Koh Samui taxis must go on the meter. They would be allowed to start at 50 THB and also add a final 50 THB to the final meter charge, but that must use the meter or...


Or else? While the military junta has shown its executive teeth in Bangkok, Pattaya and Phuket, it seems that their edicts are ignored by the Koh Samui police force. It is easy to draw conclusions about why this is. Some points of consideration. Firstly, there are too many taxis on Koh Samui. Supply completely outstrips demand. This balance could be changed by setting up a license system just for Koh Samui that worked to a quota. Moreover, cheaper taxis (on meters) would soon encourage lots of visitors and ex-pats to use taxis instead of private cars, bikes and songthaews.


Another point of consideration is that most drivers don't own their own vehicles. They have to do as their employers tell them. While they risk being fined or having their license revoked for not using the meter, they risk losing their job if their employer get wind of them using the meter. The pricing fix will only work if no taxis break the monopoly.


There is a telephone line that unhappy customers can use to report taxis in Koh Samui charging too much. There are no official figures for how many calls they have received. At present a journey that would cost 100 Thai Baht in Bangkok costs 400 or more Baht in Koh Samui.


While costs are slightly higher for fuel etc. on Koh Samui this represents bad consumer value. The issue of low cost short journeys on a relatively small island penalises drivers that take customers short distances. The airport is privately owned and has done a deal with certain transport providers. They have another fixed price scheme that is also poor value for private taxis.


Thailand has always attracted people because of its air of freedom. It is a country that is famous for its gentle Buddhist manners and lack of regulation. The downside of this is that unscrupulous elements can embed themselves in seemingly secure positions in the ‘white’ economy. The new rulers in Bangkok are finding it difficult to overturn this state of affairs – making pronouncements and getting things changed are two entirely different matters.

On Street Bar

This is the name of a bar that is not surprisingly on the street in Chaweng, next to the Buri Rasa Resort. There is absolutely nothing new about this type of bar in either Koh Samui or in Thailand. After having been to this bar I am nearly totally ignorant as to why Trip Advisor rates the place as the number one bar in Koh Samui.

If you are starting up a small bar in Thailand with very little capital the best way to keep costs low is to use outdoor space with cheap tables and chairs. Beach bars in Koh Phangan, and once in Koh Samui, all followed this model. They were often made of driftwood and local materials. Most of the construction was the bar itself. Patrons had to sit outside on cushions or in a hammock. Decoration would be odd bits and pieces and of course rasta colours. Bars like this include Rolling Stone Bar in Mae Haad. They are fun, geared towards backpackers and sell cheap bottled beer.

Perhaps Koh Samui and Chaweng have insisted on re-inventing itself  for high-end tourists  so much that basic street bars now seem a novelty, and hence the unexpected favour which reviewers have bestowed On Street Bar.

The popularity of the bar seems to rest on the hospitality of the owners – Jim and More – who make guests feel at home. Many establishments in Koh Samui tend to take their customers for granted. Moreover, the late night venues in Chaweng have seen more than their fair share of drunken fools starting fights, not paying for their drinks and revealing their body parts. The staff and management are jaded with such types (but not the money they bring in). It is thus  refreshing to encounter friendly bar staff and owners who join in the festivities.

Another factor for On Street Bar’s success is its drinks list. It has some impressive items on the menu such as passion fruit and strawberry mojito. These drinks are cheaper than in the bars of the main resorts. No doubt lots of tourists decide the Buri Rasa bar drink prices are a bit on the steep side and then stumble upon On Street Bar just outside the resort that has a better atmosphere and better prices. The contrast is considerable and a good incentive to make the effort to write a Trip Advisor review.

Clearly people rate more highly cheap drink prices, fun atmosphere and friendly staff more than beachfront location, leather sofas and expensive wine.

Ladyboy Shows in Koh Samui

One of the most fascinating parts of Thai culture for the foreigner remains the phenomenon of the ‘ladyboy’. Although, most other countries where gay people are not persecuted have their own transsexual scene, it seems no other country has such a flamboyant and visible transsexual culture as Thailand. In Thai they have a cover-all phrase ‘katoey’ to refer to gays, lesbians, transsexuals and transvestites. The phrase seems imprecise not from lack of interest to distinguish but because there is a deep-seated acceptance of the third sex in Thailand. All those who are neither straight men nor women are in one way or another ‘katoey’. One of the oldest running jokes in Thailand remains the situation where an unsuspecting foreign man sleeps with a ladyboy mistakenly thinking it was a woman. The movie Hangover 3 re-ran this joke, and it never appears to go stale. If such gags tickle your fancy it might be worth your while checking out of one of the ladyboy cabarets in Koh Samui. If you watch the audience you are more than likely to spot a drunken young Westerner who is lapping up the attention of a ladyboy. It seems unlikely the young man is gay but it seems likely he is about to have a ‘gay’ experience. Women on holiday are often drawn to the ladyboy cabarets. They invariably mention how wonderful the performers’ costumes are, and how beautiful the ladyboys look. There seems an element of voyeurism and rivalry in the way foreign women relish a ladyboy show. There are 3 main ladyboy shows in Koh Samui.

Starz Cabaret

This place is on the Chaweng Beach Road. There is a cover charge to enter and drinks cost slightly more than in a normal bar. There are performances at 8pm and 10pm every evening except Sunday. It is a popular show with an element of interaction: the ‘girls’ will tease each other, and sometimes they find a willing member of the audience to take the piss out of. It is all good-humoured fun of the gay variety.

Christy’s Cabaret

This ladyboy show is in central Chaweng on the beach road. The main show is at 10pm but the club opens at 8pm. There is an entry fee. For this fee you get ‘girls’ in glamorous and outrageous costumes singing along to gay anthems. As with all the ladyboy shows in Thailand, the performers and their entourage mingle with the audience and are happy to lavish attention on drunk, young and handsome men.

Moulin Rouge

Moulin Rouge is the only free ladyboy cabaret in Koh Samui. They make up the short-fall in revenue by increasing the price of the drinks. The shows are at 8pm, 9.30pm and 11pm. The nightclub is on the Chaweng Beach Road close to the burger king. The show is big and spectacular and features musical and burlesque elements and extravagant costumes. If you just want to have a look at what all the fuss is about Moulin Rouge is the place to go. Be sure to buy at least 1 drink or you will attract unwanted attention. A ladyboy cabaret is one of those must-do things when visiting the South of Thailand, like going to the Full Moon Party. I leave it up to the reader to decide whether they want to fall in line with received wisdom.

Bophut and Chaloklum

Bophut is one of the most interesting places to visit in Koh Samui. It retains a lot of the original wooden, Chinese style fisherman’s houses in the aptly named “Fisherman’s Village” at the entrance to Bophut. In Koh Phangan the northern village of Chaloklum is similar. In many ways these two villages and tourist destinations are similar.

Bophut

For many visitors to Koh Samui Bophut is the ideal location for a beach holiday. It has a long stretch of white sand beach lined with resorts. Most of the places to stay are in the mid-range and could be considered 3 or 4 star (not that the star system has any standard application). There is Sandy with pool, restaurant and air-con bungalows starting at 600 Thai Baht. There are a few budget places set back from the beach. There is the boutique styled Zazen and the branded Anantara Bophut Resort and Spa with excellent facilities, private pool villas and definitely worthy of 5 stars. In short there is a great choice of accommodation suiting all budgets. Many of the resorts back on to the beach. This means guests don’t have to deal with roads or noisy traffic.

Chaloklum

Chaloklum doesn’t have the same range of resorts or indeed any big hotels, but you can stay in relative comfort in places like Buri Tara Resort and Spa and Chaloklum Bay Resort. Outside of Thong Nai Pan Noi, Chaloklum has some of the nicest places to stay on Koh Phangan.  The village of Chaloklum is the centre of the small fishing industry in Koh Phangan. You can see old houses, longtail boats, bigger fishing boats and the men repairing their nets. Recently they have created a seafood area with a few great places to eat fresh BBQ fish as well as traditional southern Thai fish dishes.

As with Bophut, Chaloklum has a boutique feel to it with stylish bars and restaurants to enjoy such as the Mandalay.

Being Koh Phangan, it is not all up-market. There is still a strong backpacker presence. There is the Omega Bar with regular open mic nights. There is also the nearby beach of Haad Khom that is off the main electricity grid and has cheap and basic bungalows that can be got on a monthly rate.

There is plenty to do in Chaloklum such as archery, elephant trekking, and during the windy months, kiteboarding. There is sometimes a party at the nearby Paradise Waterfall. Yet, it remains a relaxed and peaceful spot far from the excesses of Haad Rin and the Full Moon Party; similar in a way to Bophut that has plenty of great bars but doesn’t have any pick up bars.

Since Bophut has its own ferry pier, as well the nearby Big Buddha, it is easy to jump on a boat to either Thongsala or Haad Rin. From there it is a 30 minute taxi ride to Chaloklum. If you are spending a bit of time on the islands it is worth checking out both places.

For more information about the best things to do on Koh Phangan click on this link and it will take you through to www.kohphanganhotelreviews.com. It is by far the best review site dedicated to Koh Phangan.

Samui Latin and Jazz Week

This year the Samui Jazz festival has been slightly changed – it is now to celebrate both jazz and latin music. This is not such a big departure since the two genres often cross over.

The festival will be held between 28th September and 6th October. Profits from the events go to the Green Island Foundation who support community projects.

The festival will be held at a number of locations around the island. The main stage is the beachfront at Amari Palm Reef.

Tickets to event cost 500 Thai Baht a person. There are a couple of free concerts on the main stage.

Here is the program:

Sunday 29 Sept: Fair House Villas & Spa in Maenam

20.00 Preview Concert Deborah Brown

21.00 Dina Medina & Cabo Cuba Jazz

Monday 30 Sept: Rocky's Boutique Resort in Lamai

20.00 Trio Peter Beets 'Tribute to Peterson'

21.00 Judith Nijland & the Beets Brothers

Tuesday 1 Oct: The Drink Gallery/ The Library in Chaweng

20.00 - 22.00 Saskia Laroo with 'Jazzkia'

Wednesday 2 Oct: The Passage Samui in Laem Yai

20.00 - 22.00 Miquel Rodriques feat. Nadia Basurto

Thursday 3 Oct: Centara Grand Beach Resort in Chaweng

20.00 - 22.00 Salsa Night with Nando Vanin

Concerts are with an entrance fee of 500 THB/ ticket. Tickets can be booked at the venues, via the website or at info@samuilatinandjazzweek.com

Main Stage

Friday 4 Oct + Saturday 5 Oct: Main Stage at the Beachfront of Amari Palm Reef in Chaweng

2 days of Free Concerts starting at 18.30 until midnight.

Expect an exciting line-up and fun evening with: Deborah Brown, Kho Mr. Saxman, Buntita, Changton, Cabo Cuba Jazz, Koran Daniels, Amik Guerra, Nils Fischer, Fabio Deldongo, Rolf Delfos, Alexander Beets and many more

Sunday 6 Oct: After Party at Secret Garden in Bang Rak

Koh Mudsum for Sale

It is a brag like no other to say you own a tropical island. Johnny Depp has his own private island, as does Richard Branson. Having your own island says you have really made it; more so than owning your own luxury yacht. For those interested, Koh Mudsum just off the south coast of Koh Samui, is up for sale.

There are two types of people who are likely to buy an island: rich people who want to develop the area and make money (usually from high-end tourism); and those who just want their own island.

When I read on the internet that Koh Mudsum was for sale I was shocked: Thailand has a strong official line that land is not sale to foreigners. Thailand is for Thai people. It is a slogan that Thaksin used very successfully during his last election.

How then could the authorities allow a foreigner to buy an entire island, even if it is a small and uninhabited island? The answer is that they don’t. Koh Mudsum is only available on a leasehold. That means you can rent it for 30 years. The cost is 8 million Thai Baht per rai. A rai is a parcel of land that is 40 meters by 40 meters.

A further caveat is that you cannot buy (or lease) the entire island: rather it comes in two parcels of land – one parcel is 44 rai and the other is 46 rai.

So Koh Mudsum is not for sale. Rather those who own the land wish to get rich quick, and then get the land back 30 years later! You would have to be very rich to even consider such a poor deal. However, all status symbols are ludicrous to some extent, and the more they cost the more ludicrous they seem.

You can catch a boat to Koh Mudsum from Baan Bang Kao. There are some boat tours that include snorkeling off the coast of Koh Mudsum.

If you want to 'buy' Koh Mudsum here is where you can start: http://www.privateislandsonline.com/islands/koh-mudsum

Difference between Koh Samui and Koh Phangan

Rasananda, Thong Nai Pan Noi, Koh Phangan

Just a few years ago tourists would instinctively, it seemed, know which island was for them – Koh Samui or Koh Phangan. It is no doubt a matter of expectations. Those who wanted high quality service, family activities, good roads, big shops and the safety of a mainstream tourist location chose Koh Samui. And those who wanted a less developed place with cheap accommodation, parties and more of a free atmosphere chose Koh Phangan.

The difference between the two islands is slowly becoming less clear. Koh Phangan is developing better infrastructure – the roads are being upgraded. The electricity supply has been modernized. There is now a Tesco Lotus in Thongsala. In 2012 a new reservoir was built near Thong Nai Pan that will do a lot to stop water shortages in the dry season. In 2013 they will start laying a telecommunications underwater line so that Koh Phangan will be connected to the mainland rather than going via Samui.

And of course, as most people now know, Koh Phangan Airport is being built. Many of the things you can find on Koh Samui you can now find on Koh Phangan – good hotels, villas with swimming pools, car rental, scuba diving, kiteboarding, ‘Western’ supermarkets etc. The things yet to come are big shopping malls, cinemas and activities such as indoor bowling, go carting, golf and visiting the zoo.

Despite these ‘deficiencies’ Koh Phangan has one ace up its sleeve in the game to attract visitors – its unique partying atmospheres, typified by the Full Moon Party.

Thong Nai Pan Noi in Koh Phangan has become a small beach that resembles a Koh Samui beach in that it is lined with high quality resort accommodation such as Rasananda, Santhiya, Panviman and Buri Rasa.

The two islands have always been intimately linked in their history and culture. Moreover, they both have a similar geography and ecology. Before tourism both Koh Samui and Koh Phangan made their money from coconuts and fishing. They were both inhabited since possibly the Stone Age.

You can very much feel the difference between Koh Samui and Koh Phangan when you visit at present (2013); however, it is likely that this feeling will diminish in time. We should be happy that currently we do have the choice. Enjoy both island paradises!